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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.